CHEAP EATS: WHERE TO EAT FOR LESS THAN $13 AN ENTREE Mediterranean tastes tempt Sinbad's patrons By Kevin Pang Tribune staff reporter Published March 23, 2006 First impressions: Sinbad's Fine Mediterranean Grill, a 7-month-old eatery, sits at the intersection of Fullerton and Clark, on the periphery of Lincoln Park affluence and the beginning of Clark Street's restaurant blitz. Assuming you can find parking in the area (that's no guarantee), you'll find the restaurant at the lower level of an apartment high-rise, beneath Emilio's Tapas and next to a gym. Follow the Mediterranean music through the door. Things are kept simple inside--10 clean tables, several patterned ornaments on the cream-orange walls. The music continues inside, interrupted by an occasional whir of the juice-bar blender. On the menu: It's no surprise that Syrian-born owners Manar Achek and Moe Khalil (their wives are from Morocco and Algeria, respectively) cross multiple borders with their Mediterranean cuisine. Specifically, Sinbad touches on Algeria and Morocco (with its version of couscous and tajine), Syria (falafel, shish kebab), Lebanon (fattoush), Greece (stuffed grape leaves, Greek salad ... duh) and the not-so-Mediterranean America (salmon fillet, fruit smoothies, raspberry cheesecake). At your service: The lone waitress on a recent evening was hospitable. Our basket of warm, thin pita bread kept filling up, as did the complimentary black olive spread. The restaurant seemed especially popular among twentysomething Lincoln Parkers. They came and went, ordered and picked up throughout the night. Second helping: The hummus and falafel had a potent garlic bite. The baba ghanoush was a bold rendition, with the smokiness of the eggplant lingering long afterward. The couscous plate arrived with fork-tender lamb on a bed of warm, fluffy couscous along with carrots, zucchini and chickpeas. Though slightly on the dry side, the lamb came with a bowl of pungent tomato broth for adding to the couscous. The homemade kefta kebab, ground sirloin shaped into a baton, was first-rate and served atop basmati rice. And the lamb shank plate with carrots was a highlight--the bone-in meat was juicy, flavorful and huge enough for a caveman. Take a pass: Sinbad's chicken salad, with diced cucumber, lettuce, feta cheese, olives and chicken breast, lacked cohesion. Extras: Before we visited the restaurant, we tried Sinbad's delivery service. For those who can't muster the strength to pick up the telephone, may we suggest the excellent Web-ordering option. After five minutes of clicking and typing, our order was filled. The food arrived 45 minutes later. Also, this Sinbad's should not be confused with the Sinbad's on Belmont. It's now two different owners. Price range: Appetizers, $2.50-$7.50; salads, $4.95-$5.95; sandwiches, $4.95-$6.50; entrees, $7.95-$13.95. Sinbad's Fine Mediterranean Grill (2 forks) 444 W. Fullerton Parkway 773-525-2233 www.sinbadsgrill.com Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; noon-8 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: A, M, V Delivery: Yes Nearby Looks good: Several blocks east of the restaurant is The Notebaert Nature Museum (2430 N. Cannon Drive, 773-755-5100). Check out the Judy Istock Butterfly Haven, with more than 1,000 butterflies and 75 different species on display. Sounds good: Tower Records (2301 N. Clark St., 773-477-5994), just a block south of Sinbad's, not only has a massive music collection, but a fine selection of magazines and periodicals. That, and the occasional in-store concert, make for a good stop after your meal. Ratings key: 4 forks, don't miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members; meals are paid for by the Tribune. kpang@tribune.com

Chicago Tribune

Review Published March 23, 2006

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444 west Fullerton pkwy   *   Chicago, IL 60614   *    Phone: (773) 525-2233 Dine-In     *    Carry-Outs    *    Delivery    *    Catering    *    BYOB

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